Vitamin C And Skin Care

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Vitamin C And Skin Care

Vitamin C became a celebrated cause in the world of skin after Dr. Sheldon Pinnell from Duke University published a paper in 1992 showing how L-ascorbic acid (a form of vitamin C) reduced UVB damage when applied to the backs of hairless pigs. That was big news and it generated product lines either based on L-ascorbic acid or other forms of vitamin C. Each company said the version of vitamin C they used was best (and most stable) for skin, which created more confusion than helpful information. With the passing years an impressive body of research has evolved proving the benefits, stability requirements, and usage levels for many forms of vitamin C.

Before I get to the benefits vitamin C can bestow on skin, it needs to be stated up front that vitamin C is not the answer to your skin care concerns and it is not the be-all, end-all antioxidant cosmetic companies often purport it to be. There is no conclusive or even vaguely convincing research indicating which antioxidant is best amongst the hundreds and potentially thousands that exist. In fact, there are lots and lots of potent antioxidants, of which vitamin C is just one (Sources: International Journal of Pharmaceutics, July 14, 2005, pages 153-163; Journal of Pharmaceutical Biomedical Analysis, February 2005, pages 287-295; and Journal of Molecular Medicine, August 2000, pages 333-336).

But back to vitamin C. When it comes to applying this vitamin topically at levels ranging from 0.3-10%, the benefits are:

·	Potent antioxidant, particularly in regard to protecting skin cells from UV-induced damage

·	Delays tumor formation after (animal) skin is exposed to extensive UV damage

·	Has a low risk of skin sensitization at concentrations up to 10% in the form of ascorbic acid

·	Reduces transepidermal water loss, thus strengthening skin’s barrier response

·	Promotes collagen production and has the potential to thicken the dermis

·	Reduces inflammation

·	Ascorbic acid at levels of 5% and above has a positive effect on hyperpigmentation (though the results are not as impressive as hydroquinone, suggesting a combination of the two would be optimal)

·	Improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin by strengthening skin’s repair mechanisms

·	Enhances the effectiveness of dermatologist-performed procedures such as peels and microdermabrasion